March 5, 2012

Nomad Chic In The Hermès Show

As creative director for the house of Hermès for the third season, Cristophe Lemaire imagined for the Fall/Winter 2012-2013 season, a collection celebrating the brand’s equestrian roots, combining them with the idea of modern luxury.

Thus a collection inspired by nomad tradition was born. The show opened with a series of gauchas with wool sarapes and loose leather pants tucked in high boots, and closed with a series of outfits boasting prints reminiscent of Russian folklore. The South-American accents gave the outfits a more feminine feel.

With the exception of a couple of flannel or croc-skin jackets, Lemaire was generous when it comes to volumes, creating looks that are best described as chic and relaxed.

The eveningwear was also far from being overly formal, keeping in tone with the show’s relaxed style, through silk skirts and loose velvet tops.

Lemaire went through the House’s archives and drew inspiration from designer Martin Margiela’s collaboration with Hermès in the late Nineties. The result was a suite of androgynous looks, reminiscent of the strictness of the masculine-inspired looks that Margiela created a decade ago.

Making it clear that the Hermès woman is stylish at any age, veteran models Marie-Sophie Wilson and Cecilia Chancellor strutted down the ruway this season. Moreover, in a classic French love triangle, singer and actress Bambou, Serge Gainsbourg’s widow, whose former flame, Jane Birkin was the inspiration for the famous bag’s name, closed the show in an avalanche of applause from the audience.

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