Gucci’s stylistic DNA is undergoing permanent reinventions featuring a healthy dose of fantasy under Alessandro Michele’s creative wand. The romantic, as a fundamental component of his collections, is being interpreted within a context dense with conceptual and esthetic references of the most diverse. This way, the end result is one of sets overwhelming through their innate richness of style details. The spring-summer 2017 collection shown in Milan and called ’’Magic Lanterns’’ weaves together complex visual elements for a magic, captivating effect. “It’s beautiful, it’s pop, but it’s also very sophisticated in a way. It’s an eclectic conversation between different inspirations, that at the end becomes a language. My idea of fashion was always that it wasn’t just one story, but a fresco of an illusion.” Michelle explains.
And the fountains of inspiration discernible from among this kaleidoscopic mélange are, first of all, the romantic, already typical for Gucci’s Michele era, followed by the character of vintage fabrics and, also, the one embodied by the platform sandals referencing Venetian courtesan shoes.
The cut of the pieces exemplifies the meeting of the romantic (punctuated by rigidly structured pieces) with a retro esthetic. The first esthetic is being represented by the floor-length dresses, the highly elaborated collars and sleeves and the bows and flounces ornamentation. Often, their fluidity comes to be censored, around the waist, by belts, even corsets. The second takes the shape of midi pleated skirts, conical-leg or, on the contrary, wide-leg wide hem trousers plus tie-worn shirts and woolen vests.
The high-impact palette of black and white and electric red and orange is met by pink and blue pastels.
At the same time, the prints also come to restate the collection’s intercontextuality. If jacquard is the key term for describing the vast majority of the pieces, the range it takes is highly diverse, spanning from oriental prints to contemporary illustrator Jayde Fish’s graphic.
Backing this array of visual expressions, the fabrics used are equally varied – from tulle to lamé silk and from veil to knit work.
The accessories shown on the podium include turban-scarves, retro glasses and jewelry and rigid, Japanese style fans. The pieces belonging to Gucci’s classic trove – shoes and the iconic GG Marmont bag – have been reconceptualized to match the idea of the new collection.
Photos: Gucci, wmagazine.com