January 16, 2013

Best of Milan Men’s Fashion Week F/W 2013 (I)

Follow Fashion avec Passion’s Best Of Milan Men’s Fashion Week series to find out about the hottest menswear trends for the Fall/Winter 2013 season:

Burberry Prorsum

After a season of futuristic metallics, Christopher Bailey is returning to the idea of traditional elegance with a collection of reinterpreted Burberry classics.

The “I ♥ Classics” collection features modern details added to a series of iconic pieces, bringing them into the present and providing a fresh and youthful vibe.

The show’s key-piece, the Burberry trench coat, is reinterpreted in an array of fabrics – latex, pony, leather, fur; but also appears in its classic form, sprinkled with modern details, such as animal print inserts on hemlines, cuffs, collars and lapels, and paired with straight or skinny trousers and matching leopard print accessories.

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Costume National

For his Fall/Winter 2013 collection for Costume National, Ennio Capasa has chosen to illustrate the Angry Young Men era (a writers’ movement in 1950s England characterised by a disillusionment with traditional English society.)

Using models plucked from the streets of London and Mick Jagger’s mugshot as inspiration, Capasa came up with a dark, mostly black&white collection, without many embellishments, in which leather skinny pants, biker jackets and long overcoats create a dramatic air that is also extremely masculine.

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Starting off with a look à la Jay Gatsby, Donatella Versace has challenged the limits of the conventional, gradually exaggerating proportions as well as the dose of prints, reaching a parody of the 21st century macho man image, all the while playing with the notion of sexuality – which is, for that matter, a mark of the brand.

From classic Prince of Wales checked suits, reminiscent of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s main character of his 1925 novel, to punk looks portraying a modern bad boy who loves graffitti and dressing in leather, fur and even lace, Donatella has created for Versace a collection in which classic elegance comes together with a powerful dose of modern sex-appeal.

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Z Zegna

For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Paul Surridge has created for Z Zegna a line-up in which “The Urban Wanderer Meets the Great Outdoors”.

A series of outerwear pieces dominated the show, among which were trench coats with leather or shearling panels, oversize vests and jackets with reversed hems, which gave the impression of exoskeletons.

The Z Zegna F/W 2013 collection aims to offer a dose of “clarity and order in today’s fast fashion maelstrom”, according to the designer himself.

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Dolce & Gabbana

Focusing on the central idea of faith, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana have created for the Menswear Fall/Winter 2013 collection a line-up of looks in which the religious theme comes together with traditional elegance, as well a good dose of Sicilian joyfulness.

White shirts, plain or with minute embroidery, paired with simple black pants, were alternated on the runway with blouses boasting the face of Virgin Mary, elegant ”Sunday best” suits, along with a series of pieces celebrating the designers’ Sicilian roots, featuring multicoloured floral embroidery on surprising fabrics, such as velvet or brocade.

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For even more shows, check out Best Of Men’s Milan Fashion Week (II), Best Of Men’s Milan Fashion Week (III), Best Of Men’s Milan Fashion Week (IV).

Photos courtesy of: style.com, stamfordadvocate.com